Knitting fabrics range from casual sweatshirt fleece to elegant stretch velvets and are available in a wide variety of fibers both natural and synthetic and a combination of the two. The degree of stretch varies from 20 to 35%. Knits are versatile and can be seen in everything from the most casual wear to theclassiest.
Knits come in a variety of fabrics that vary in texture, stretchability, fiber content, weight and design Select patterns which are designed for stretch knits only. These knitting patterns require fabric that stretches a specific amount and the pattern envelope gives the degree of stretch
Types of Knit Fabrics:
- Firm, stable knits: These knitting fabrics stretch very little and are handled similarly to woven fabrics. These include double knits and Raschel knits, a novelty knit recognized by lacy, stable construction.
- Lightweight single knits: Single knit fabrics and jersey knits are light to medium weight fabrics with flat vertical ribs on the right side and dominant horizontal lines on the wrong side. Examples are jerseys and tricot knits. Fabric stretches from 20 to 25% across the grain. Suitable for T-shirts,tops, dresses, pull-on pants, shorts, skirts, and sleepwear.
- Double knit fabric: They are firm, medium to heavy weight fabric which has fine ribs and usually looks the same on both sides. Because the fabric has minimal stretch, patterns designed for woven fabric can also be used. Suitable for skirts, pants, jackets and dresses.
- Interlock knits: These knitting fabrics are lightweight, drapable andhave a fair amount of crosswise stretch. They do not curl at the edges, but can run on the crosswise edge. Interlock knits are heavier, thicker, and easier to sew than jersey knits. Fabric stretches 25 to 35% across the grain. Suitable for tops, dresses, pull-on pants, shorts, skirts, and sleepwear.
- Textured knits: Textured knitting fabric may be single or double knits. Examples include knitted terry and velour, sweater knits, and sweatshirt fleece. These knits have moderate to good stretch except sweatshirt fleece which has little or no stretch.
- Two-way stretch knits: They stretch in both length and width and havea high percentage of resilient spandex fibers. These knits are usually selected for active sportswear.
- Ribbing: This is a stretchy knit used for stretch trims at wrists, ankles, neck and waist. It is available in tubular ribbing and in rib trim.
STRETCH GAUGE
Most patterns designed for knits have a stretch gauge printed on the back of the pattern envelope. The f ease built into the pattern design is based on the number of inches the specific knit will stretch. If the pattern recommendations are not followed, a garment can have too tight or too loose a fit.
CHOOSING PATTERNS
Check the stretch gauge on the pattern to see if the fabric is suitable for the pattern. If the pattern does not have a stretch gauge on the back, it is designed for a stable knit or woven fabric. If you're in doubt about whether the fabric and pattern are right for each other, look at the suggested fabrics listed on the back of the pattern envelope.
PREPARING FABRIC
Purchase a little extra fabric, because most knits shrink to some degree. Wash the fabric in the same manner you intend to use for the finished garment. This will preshrink the fabric and remove the surface finish which will make it easier to sew.
CUTTING
Knits have shading and pattern pieces should be cut in one direction and be placed with the greatest degree of stretch around the body. Use weights to hold pattern pieces in place. A rotary cutter works very well with knits, just be sure to use a matt to protect your cutting table.
SEWING PROCEDURES
Sew the seam using an overlock stitch. This stitch sews and overcast in one step. It is not necessary to stretch the fabric while sewing as stretch is built in. The seam can also be done with a narrow zig-zag width and a medium stitch length. On a straight stitch machine, sew the seam using a medium stitch length; stretch the fabric in the front and in the back of the presser foot as you sew
HEMMING
Hems can be topstitched or blind hemmed. Sew the hem with a catchstitch by hand or use the blind hem on your machine. To topstitch hems, loosen the pressure on the presser foot to prevent the hem from stretching. Topstitch with a narrow zigzag and a medium stitch length, a double or a triple needle, or use the cover hem on the serger machine.
Knitting fabric is all together a wonderful and creative experience. You can knit fabrics of your own and design your own pattern. You can show everyone your talent by giving tele seminars also. The designer is in you!
